Unfortunately, at this point in time, there is no 100% organic hair color. We’d be using it already if there’s any.
It is our mission at the Beauty Library to help clients stay pretty as naturally as possible. However, it is important to acknowledge that a chemical reaction has to occur in order for hair colours to be long lasting and give full grey coverage. This is particularly true for darker colours. Still, today’s technology has made removal of many harsh chemicals possible and given us amazing hair colour products which are much safer than and work as well as traditional mainstream options.
All of our carefully selected hair products contain the lowest amount of chemicals possible. With the exception of products for technical services, products we use are 95% naturally derived.
Commonly found in topical acne treatments and often used as a colouring agent.
Known as possible toxicants to our immune system, absorption through skin and into the blood system can lead to severe effects on health e.g. heart rate changes, endocrine toxicity hazard.
Ammonia (Or Other Odourless Substitutes)
Hair cuticles must be open for colour to flow into the inside the hair. These are done by raising the pH level or with the use of heat. The higher the pH, the wider the cuticles open.
Used during hair colouring process to raise the hair pH level and open the hair cuticle for colour to penetrate, ammonia is very corrosive. It can lead to cell damage when in the contact with the body. usage of ammonia to force open the hair cuticles causes the opening to be too wide than necessary (by taking it from the ideal pH level of 5.5 into the 10.5-12 range) strips hair’s natural health and shine. Also, since the re-closing of the cuticle is pretty much impossible, the result is permanent damage to the structure of the hair.
Ammonia also gives unpleasant odour and cause allergic reactions e.g. itchy scalps and watery eyes.
SLS (Sodium Lauryl/Laurel Sulfate)
A known skin irritant, potentially carcinogenic. It is normally used to create the foaming experience.
Also Free From Paraben, Formaldehydes, Thioglycolates, And Other Dangerous Toxins Commonly Found In Permanent Hair Colour
Ammonia force-opens the cuticles by taking the hair into the 10.5 – 12 range on the pH scale. Our hair colour products use a moisturizing oil base comprising of PEG- 2 soyamine and a small amount of ethanolamine that allows to cuticle to open gradually. They contain just the amount needed to make the hair condition sufficiently alkaline, so that the cuticle opens up just enough for the colour to enter.
When the pH of the hair is raised to such a high extent by ammonia, it’s physically impossible to return it to an ideal pH after colouring. Cuticles would then remain open, causing continual leakage of protein and moisture. There is no physical damage to the hair structure when colouring with our products since the pH level is not raised so high.
Dry, damaged hair is less of a problem. Since our products don’t open the cuticle to the same degree as colour containing ammonia, they are also that much easier to close. Also, all our products work together for outstanding results. Our pre-colouring shampoos, for example, help to soften the hair and gently open up the cuticles to prep the hair for better colour absorption. Our conditioners close the cuticles completely while restoring hair to its natural pH value of 5.5, ensuring that the colour stays locked in.
Products we use contain ethanolamine in just the amount needed to make the hair condition sufficiently alkaline, so that the cuticle can be opened enough for the colour to enter. Organic Colour Systems uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise any residual ethanolamine. The mentioned ingredients enabled us to increase the pH of the hair to a level sufficient for cuticle opening.
Unfortunately, permanent color products used in our salon still contain PPDs. The amount, however, is significantly lower than that in colour with ammonia.
The amount of PPDs in products we use is the lowest percentage possible while still delivering permanent result- an average of 0.4% as opposed to the common 2%. also, our lighter shades are completely PPD-free.
According to HerbsUK, “although the amount of PPD in organic colour systems is low enough for us to advertise our hair colour as “PPD free”, we feel that doing so would be disingenuous. Please note that permanent hair colors contain some PPD’s regardless of what they may advertise, but many have a low enough percentage to enable them to legally advertise as “PPD free”. “
P.S. PPD (Or Paraphenylenediamine) is a chemical used in darker colour permanent hair dye to help the colour adheres better. It’s the most effective known method for covering grays. Known as a possible carcinogen (cancer-causing), allergies are common. Reactions range from reddening, swelling of the scalp and hair line to anaphylaxis. Banned in all other cosmetic products, its affects are believed to be cumulative in that allergy will build up over time. Although, many hair colour companies today claim to be ppd free, it is highly likely that they have replaced it with the even more dangerous sister-chemical PTDs.
We Recommend Our PPD And PTD-Free Semi-Permanent Colour Products Which Last Between 13-30 Shampoos For Those With Allergies.
Our peroxide is pharmaceutical grade which means it is the same peroxide found in eye drops, and therefore gentler then industrial grade peroxide.
All permanent hair colors contain oxidative pigments which means that they have to come into contact with oxygen in order to materialize. Peroxide is simply H2O2. Water with an additional oxygen molecule that can be split off easily to activate the pigments.
Organic Colour System is “the first ever range of permanent hair colours made from the maximum amount of certified organic ingredients and the minimum amount of chemicals to colour and care for your hair as naturally as possible.”
Created over twenty years ago by London colourists, Stephen Landreth and Stuart Taylor as a solution to Landreth’s allergy to hair colour, the brand has a focus on non-toxic hair colour that delivers professional results. The products are salon-exclusive and used in over 1,400 salons around the world.
While the products are not 100% natural or organic, the brand uses the most natural ingredients possible for the product to be able to work. Chemical ingredients are only used when there is no effective natural alternative.
Unfortunately, the vast majority of non-ammonia colours have merely removed ammonia from the colour and replaced it with odourless Ethanolamine or MEA. The condition required in order to colour hair effectively, e.g. high pH, remains the same. Organic Colour Systems, on the other hand, removes the need for ammonia by using a whole new colour delivery system.
To fully understand this, it is vital to understand ammonia’s role in a hair colour.
The primary function is to raise the pH of the hair sufficiently so as to open the cuticle and allow the colour to enter the cortex of the hair. Depending on the percentage of ammonia in each colour this can vary as to how high the pH of the hair is taken. The more ammonia there is in the product, the higher the pH of the hair. The secondary function is that when mixed with peroxide, ammonia neutralises the existing colour pigments to a greater degree.
Unfortunately there are three main side effects:
1. At the same time that the colour is swelling the cuticle to easily enter the cortex, there is significant protein and moisture loss. This is how the hair is damaged during colouring when using an ammonia colour.
2. The pH of the hair is raised to such an extent by the ammonia that it is physically impossible to return it to its ideal pH after colouring. This means that the cuticle remains open, the hair continues to lose protein and moisture and there is also an increased risk of colour fade.
3. As a result of the cuticle remaining open, the percentage of pigment in the colour needs to be as high as possible. This is necessary as a relatively high percentage of the colour will be lost when rinsing off at the backwash. Plus, due to the greater neutralisation of the pigment by the ammonia-peroxide mix, a higher pigment percentage is required.
The vast majority of non-ammonia hair colours that recently came into the market have merely removed ammonia from the colour and replaced it with a similar ingredients e.g. ethanolamine (no health concern for minimal usage) with no alkaline base, however, they will need much higher loads of ethanolamine to open up the hair cuticles. They haven’t managed to decrease the pH level so the same amount of damage still occurs.
Organic Colour Systems use an alkaline colour base (the main ingredient) that contains conditioning agent so it raises the pH of the hair and softens the cuticle at the same time. With heat, the softened cuticles can be opened at a far lower pH level, allowing colour to penetrate in a much more gentle way. As a result, the three side effects mentioned above don’t apply to Organic Colour Systems.
All permanent hair colors contain oxidative pigments. This means that they need to come into contact with oxygen for the colour pigment be activated. Peroxide’s is simply H2O2 (water with an additional oxygen molecule) and it is the energy from the two oxygen molecules that activate the pigment. It also neutralizes the existing colour pigment in the hair. The more peroxide, the greater the neutralization of the existing pigment and the greater the lift.
Our peroxide, available from 3%-12%, is pharmaceutical grade which means it is the same peroxide found in eye drops, and therefore gentler than other industrial grade peroxides.
Similar to other hair colours, Organic Colour Systems hair colour products can be affected by medication such as HRT and Thyroxin.
When pregnant or after giving birth, your body is in a very delicate condition and may react differently to colouring than usual. You may develop a reaction to the product, even if you have no problems using the product in the past. We recommend that you check with your doctor first before getting treatments.
Most research, although limited, shows that it’s safe to colour your hair while pregnant. Some studies have found that very high doses of the chemicals in hair dyes may cause harm. However, these doses are massive compared to the very low amount of chemicals that a woman colouring her hair is exposed to. We recommend waiting to dye their hair until after the first 12 weeks of pregnancy, when the risk of chemical substances harming the baby is much lower. Highlighting the hair or using “off the scalp” techniques also reduces any risk. The chemicals used are only absorbed by your hair, and not by your scalp or bloodstream.
Semi-permanent colours are a better alternative whilst pregnant; however a sensitivity test is still recommended. Do remember that pregnancy can affect hair’s normal condition. It’s always a good idea to do a strand test first, using the hair colour or treatment that you intend to use. When breast feeding it is very unlikely that a significant amount of the chemicals used in hair dyes will be passed on through breast milk. This is because very little enters the bloodstream. In the past, many women have used hair treatments while breast feeding with no known negative results. We recommend following these steps waiting for 4 weeks after giving birth, start with a semi-permanent colour or “off the scalp” method applications and always do sensitivity and strand tests.
Yes it will. Plus, for extremely resistant grey hair, we have a special NN series, specifically designed for colouring this hair type.